Window Installation in the Capital Region
Installation and replacement get used interchangeably, but on a job site they are two different scopes. Replacement drops a new unit into an opening that already exists. Installation means the opening is new, or it is changing size, and that brings framing, headers, flashing, and weather barrier detailing into the job.
Window installation covers new openings, additions, and new construction, which is different work from replacing an existing unit. It involves framing the rough opening, flashing it correctly, and tying the window into the weather barrier. Expect $600 to $1,600 per opening including the framing work.
This is the work that leaks when it is done badly, and it usually does not leak right away. It leaks in year three, behind the siding, where nobody sees it until the drywall stains. The difference between a window that lasts thirty years and one that rots the wall around it is almost entirely in the flashing sequence and the sill pan.
Sundog installs windows in additions, dormers, finished basements, garage conversions, and new builds across the Capital Region, and we flash every opening like it will be tested.
When you need installation rather than replacement
- You are adding a room, dormer, or finished basement space
- You want a window where there is currently a solid wall
- You are enlarging an existing opening for more light or for egress
- You are converting a garage or porch into living space
- Previous work leaked and the opening needs to be reframed and reflashed
- You are building new and want the window package installed by the crew who will warranty it
Why the flashing sequence is the whole job
Water gets behind siding. That is normal and every wall assembly assumes it. The job of window flashing is not to stop water from getting in, it is to guarantee that water which does get in has a downhill path back out. That means the sill pan goes in before the window, the jamb flashing laps over the sill flange, the head flashing laps over the jamb, and the house wrap laps over the head flashing. Get any one of those laps backwards and you have built a funnel that drains into your wall cavity. This is the single most common defect we find when we open up a leaking window someone else installed.
What installation costs when the opening is new
Budget differently than you would for a straight replacement, because framing and finish work are the larger share of the cost.
| Scope | Typical installed range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New opening, non-load-bearing wall | $600 to $1,100 | Framing, flash, set, finish |
| New opening, load-bearing wall | $900 to $1,600 | Engineered header and temporary support |
| Enlarging an existing opening | $700 to $1,400 | Header usually has to be resized |
| Basement egress window | $3,500 to $8,500 | Includes cutting the foundation and the window well |
| New construction, per opening | $250 to $600 | Labor only, openings already framed |
Ranges reflect typical Capital Region projects and are for planning only. Every Sundog quote is written, itemized, and free.
How the project runs
- 1
Site review and measurements
We look at wall construction, what is inside the wall, and whether the opening can be cut where you want it. Load-bearing walls need a properly sized header.
- 2
Permit coordination
New and enlarged openings need a building permit in Capital Region municipalities. We tell you what is required and work to the inspection schedule.
- 3
Framing the rough opening
We cut, install the header and jack studs, and frame the opening to the manufacturer rough opening dimensions with the right shim allowance.
- 4
Sill pan and flashing
A sloped sill pan goes in first, then the window, then flashing tape in the correct shingle-lap order, tied into the house wrap so water always has a path down and out.
- 5
Setting and insulating
The unit is shimmed plumb, level and square, fastened per manufacturer spec, and the perimeter is insulated with low-expansion foam.
- 6
Interior and exterior finish
Exterior trim and siding are tied back in, interior gets jamb extensions, casing and drywall return as needed.
What proper window installation includes
- Structural header sized for the span and the load above
- Rough opening framed to manufacturer tolerance
- Sloped sill pan under every unit
- Flashing tape applied in correct shingle-lap sequence
- Integration with the existing house wrap or weather barrier
- Low-expansion foam perimeter insulation
- Exterior trim and siding tie-in
- Interior jamb extensions and casing
- Coordination with the building inspector
Where we do this work
We handle window installation across Albany, Rensselaer, Schenectady and Saratoga counties from our Troy office. These are the markets we are in most often.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a permit to cut a new window opening?
Yes. Every Capital Region municipality we work in requires a building permit for a new opening or an enlarged one, because it changes the structure. The permit also triggers an inspection of the header, which is a good thing. We handle the coordination and build to the inspection schedule.
Can you put a window in a load-bearing wall?
Yes, with a properly sized header and temporary support during the cut. The header size depends on the span and what is bearing above it, including roof load and any floors. This is exactly the part of the job that should not be improvised, and it is why the permit inspection is worth having.
What is a sill pan and do I really need one?
A sill pan is a waterproof, sloped tray under the window that catches any water that gets past the unit and directs it back out. Most manufacturers require it for warranty coverage. It costs very little at install time and it is the single cheapest insurance against a rotted wall. We install one under every window.
How long does it take to install a window in a new opening?
One opening in a straightforward wall is usually a full day including framing, flashing, setting, and interior finish. A load-bearing wall or a masonry wall takes longer. Basement egress windows are typically two to three days because of the foundation cut and the window well.
Can you install windows in a brick or masonry wall?
Yes, though it is a different process. Masonry openings need a lintel above, the cut has to be made carefully to avoid cracking, and the perimeter is sealed differently than a framed wall. Many Troy and Albany rowhouses are masonry, so this is routine work for us.
Do you install windows for general contractors and builders?
Yes. We do window package installation for builders and remodelers across the four-county area on a labor-only or supply-and-install basis. Give us the schedule and the openings and we will hit the dates.
Related services
Worth reading before you decide
Get a written quote for window installation
Free measure, itemized pricing, and an honest recommendation on whether this is the right scope for your house.