Window Repair or Replace? A Decision Guide That Is Not Trying to Sell You Windows
Repair when one component has failed and the frame is sound: balances, hardware, glass units, weatherstripping and minor sill rot are all repairable. Replace when the frame itself is compromised, when the window is uninsulated aluminum, or when repair costs exceed half of replacement.
The answer depends on what failed, not on how old the window is. A forty-year-old window with a sound frame and a broken balance is a seventy-five dollar repair. A fifteen-year-old window with a racked frame is a replacement.
Here is a failure-by-failure guide with the numbers.
Failure by failure
| What failed | Repair cost | Repair or replace? |
|---|---|---|
| Balance, sash will not stay up | $75 to $250 | Repair |
| Broken lock, latch or crank | $100 to $280 | Repair |
| Cracked or broken pane | $75 to $600 | Repair |
| Fogged glass, one or two windows | $150 to $600 | Repair the glass unit |
| Fogged glass, most of the house | $150 to $600 each | Replace, the rest are queued behind |
| Worn weatherstripping | $60 to $200 | Repair |
| Minor sill rot, frame sound | $200 to $800 | Repair |
| Rotted frame and jambs | Not economical | Replace |
| Frame racked out of square | Not repairable | Replace |
| Uninsulated aluminum frame | Not fixable | Replace |
| Single pane, historic district | $400 to $900 restore plus storm | Repair |
| Single pane, no restrictions | Replace, better value |
The half-of-replacement rule
A useful threshold: if the repair costs more than half of what replacing that window would cost, replace it. A two hundred dollar repair on a window that would cost six hundred to replace is good value, because it buys you another ten years. A four hundred dollar repair on the same window is not, because you are spending two thirds of the price to extend the life of something already near the end of it. Apply this per window, not per house, because in most homes the right answer is mixed.
How to assess your own windows in twenty minutes
- Push a screwdriver tip firmly into the sill at each outside corner. Sound wood resists, rotted wood gives.
- Measure both diagonals inside the frame. A difference over a quarter inch means the frame has racked.
- Look for staining, peeling paint or lifting flooring directly below the window, which means water has been getting past for a while.
- Open and close each sash. Note which ones will not stay up, stick, or need force.
- Check for haze between the panes. Wipe both sides first to confirm it is not surface dirt.
- Close one eye and sight along the sash where it meets the frame. Visible daylight means the weatherstripping is gone.
- Feel along the perimeter with the back of your hand on a windy day. Air at the trim rather than at the sash is a perimeter problem, not a window problem.
Ranges reflect typical Capital Region projects and are for planning only. Every Sundog quote is written, itemized, and free.
Frequently asked questions
Is it worth repairing a 30 year old window?
It depends entirely on the frame. A thirty-year-old window with a sound frame and a failed balance is absolutely worth a seventy-five dollar repair. The same window with a soft sill and a racked frame is not. Age tells you how likely other components are to fail soon, which is worth weighing, but it does not decide the question.
How much does it cost to fix a foggy window?
Replacing the failed insulated glass unit runs $150 to $600 per sash depending on size and glass package, while keeping the existing frame, sash and hardware. That compares to $450 to $1,400 to replace the whole window, so on one or two windows it is clearly the better spend.
Should I replace all my windows at once or fix them as they fail?
If the windows are all the same age and one has failed, the others are usually within a few years behind it, and doing them together saves mobilization cost. If the house has a mix of ages, fixing as they fail is entirely reasonable. There is no rule that says a house must have matching windows.
Can a contractor be trusted to recommend repair?
One who does both repair and replacement has no structural reason to steer you. One who only sells replacement windows has every reason to. Ask directly whether they do repair work, and ask for both numbers on the same estimate. A contractor who will not quote a repair is telling you something.
My windows are drafty but otherwise fine. What should I do?
Find out where the air is coming from first. Air at the sash means weatherstripping, which is a cheap repair. Air at the trim or the perimeter means the gap between the frame and the rough opening was never insulated, which is a different fix entirely and does not require a new window. Replacing windows to solve a perimeter leak is a common and expensive mistake.
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